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Monthly Archives: July 2012
Ambassadors with Molto Gusto
Let me share with you a little known secret. In the lower ground floor of a fine townhouse in one of London’s most exclusive squares, there is a tiny restaurant which completely changes its theme near monthly. Two flags hang above … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Basil, Best Pasta, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Ligurian, New Chefs, Nonna's Cooking, Origins of our food, Real Italy, Rice, Simple Food, Southern Italy, The Moors, Wine Making and Viticulture
Tagged Albergo's, Carlo Presenti, Culatello, Farinata, Gelati, Genoa, Italian Cook Schools, Italian Cultural Institute, Italian Kitchen, Italian Provinces, Italian Regions, Liguria, Ligurian Olive Oils, Ligurian Wines, Nino Bergese School (Genoa), Over-run American style Ice Cream, Pesto alla Genovese, Pinoli, Ragu, Ravioli, Salsa di Noci, Sicily, Tocco, Trofie, Via Sotto Ripa
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The ‘Heavyweight’ Lady Boxer
I write from time to time about how my life is a duopoly of luck and discovery. The people I meet lead me to places and products which are of that simplicity and authenticity that so many can only dream of – … Continue reading
Posted in American Dishes, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Classic Rice Dishes, Food travel, French Markets, Great Chefs, London Dining, Simple Food, Techniques, Terroir
Tagged Anissa Helou, Arabella Boxer, Arabella Boxer's Book of English Food, Beatrice Miller, David Bailey, English Food, Evelyn Waugh, Lady Arabella Boxer, Lady Metroland, Penguin Books, Tessa Traeger, Vogue Magazine
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First in Britain – ‘Le Grand Maitre’ at Our Table
A text message pings in from Arnaud, a guy I’ve never met – “meet me on Smithfield Market in the morning at 06h00″ he wrote. Arnaud visits London once a month to look after the affairs of Loué, my favourite poultry … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Capon, Caponisation, Cazuela, Chicken, Fonds and Jus, Food Influencers, Food Marketeers, food politics, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Guinea Fowl, IGP, Label Rouge, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet Fermier, Poulet Fermiers, Risotto, Salad, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Terroir
Tagged Bastille Day, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Genetically Modified Foods, Henri IV, Hybrid Chickens, Jasnieres, July 14, LDC, Le Gout, Le Mans, Loue, Maine et Loire, Monsanto, Pays de Loire, Poule au Pot, Poulet Roti, Quatorze Juillet, Sans OGM, Sarthe, Savennieres, Smithfield Market
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There’s ‘Pesto’ and there’s ‘Salsa’
Back in Genoa for the shortest 24 hour pit-stop, I fitted in so much stuff. I was there mostly to talk tuna – posh, top end tuna c/o of my local interpreter and fixer, friend and architect, Sheila Opezzi. This is tuna which we’ll … Continue reading
Posted in Aubergine, Basil, Best Pasta, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Cicchetti, DOP, Fish, Harry's Bar, Ligurian, Pigeoneau, Real Italy, Salad, Terroir, The Food Business
Tagged Aperol Spritz, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Borlotti Beans, Carloforte, Ciccheti, DOP Basilico alla Genovese, Ersatz Pesto, Farinata, Genoa, Gustiamo, Liguria, Lord Byron, Mercata Orientale, Pesto Rossi 1947, Prosecco, Ristorante Il Genovese, Sotto Rippo, Via Galata, Via XX Septembre
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24h du Genoa
Back from the world’s greatest endurance race, the 24h du Mans in its 80th running, I couldn’t resist the headline. Off to Genoa on the early flight and still too late for lunch on day one and a too early … Continue reading
The White Delight
There’s surely more to the magnificent and, by so many, over-looked vegetable, the cauliflower. ‘Cauliflower Ears’ were a graphic boxing term from thelate 19th and early 20th century refering to those poor off ’seconds’ who took the repeated punches and ended up with permanently … Continue reading