Category Archives: Terroir

Liguria: Plotkin’s Paradise, Panizza’s Pesto

Paradise is a word never to be employed lightly, it being too special to be devalued by mis-use. I’ve been in touch with a man who uses the ‘paradise’ word with every last gram of passion and meaning that it is due - and I … Continue reading

Share
Posted in Basil, Best Pasta, Coffee, DOP, DOP Basilico Genovese, Food travel, Genoa, Il Genovese Restaurant, Ligurian, Memories, Mercato Orientale, Pesto alla Genovese, Pesto alla Genovese, Real Italy, Terroir, Veal, Vitellone | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

The Bretons’ Best Silver

How can one improve on eating sardines? The little fish described by London chef Rowley Leigh of Le Café Anglais as ‘the rabbits of the piscatorial world’. Wouldn’t we prefer this Chef/Writer had kept his English plainer and written ‘sea’, but otherwise I loved what he said, specially … Continue reading

Share
Posted in Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Bread, Fish, Food of the Ancients, French supermarkets, Harry's Bar, Label Rouge, Simple Food, supermarkets, Terroir, The Food Business, Venice, Vinegars | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Schmaltz, Oma style

  With more and more UK food stores, from hypermarket barns to our neighbourhood late night shops, most times now stocking Duck or Goose Fat and some delicatessens even selling Italian Lardo, a third option is missing. It’s where we should go next. … Continue reading

Share
Posted in Austrian Cooking, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Bread, Comforting Foods, Curing and Smoking, Fish, Good Potatoes, Graisse d'oie and Confit de Canard, Simple Food, Smoked Fish, South West French Cuisine, Terroir | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Gnocco, Gnocchi – Who’s There?

The answer is a dumpling that’s as old as pasta itself.  That’s Gnocchi – made most times nowadays with potato, but with variants assembled from semolina, regular wheat flour, chestnut flour, polenta, breadcrumbs (like Knödel) and, in Lombardy, they make theirs with pumpkin. Sometimes the gnocchi are … Continue reading

Share
Posted in Blue Collar Gastronomy, Comforting Foods, Good Potatoes, Harry's Bar, Real Italy, Techniques, Terroir, Venice | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Katie or Kate’s Great Legacy

The world of food and cookery writing lost a hero a few weeks ago. Much saddened as we are to lose a friend, we lost Katie’s writing about a decade earlier when she retired from the mainstream. In what was to … Continue reading

Share
Posted in Seasoning, Sensory Cooking, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, Subsidised Food Production, Techniques, Terroir, Watercress | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

A Perfumed Potager in L’Orne

There are buds showing and daffodils coming up right now all showing us Nature’s rebirth, but a finely tended garden in mid-summer is another thing altogether.  I saved this piece for our winter time with the intention of delighting my readers. I write … Continue reading

Share
Posted in Alcohol, Bread, Chicken, Food travel, French Regional Foods, Organic Food, Pigeoneau, Poulet Fermiers, Salad, Salad and Digestion, Simple Food, Terroir | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Instep for Cruschi

I break into a smile each time I hear myself saying “Cruschi”. It’s a quite crazy word for a very real gastronomic treat. Said by the peoples of Lucano, it sounds like “Crusshh-ski” – put a question mark at the end and, … Continue reading

Share
Posted in Alcohol, Basilicata, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Bread, DOC, Real Italy, Southern Italy, Spanish Cooking, Terroir, Wild Food, Wines | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments