Category Archives: Southern Italy

Instep for Cruschi

I break into a smile each time I hear myself saying “Cruschi”. It’s a quite crazy word for a very real gastronomic treat. Said by the peoples of Lucano, it sounds like “Crusshh-ski” – put a question mark at the end and, … Continue reading

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Posted in Alcohol, Basilicata, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Bread, DOC, Real Italy, Southern Italy, Spanish Cooking, Terroir, Wild Food, Wines | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

‘Ragu al Forno’

So many dishes come about through accident. Here’s one that recently happened in the No 19 kitchen. I’ve written about Ragú and Sugo; I’ve been first in England to talk of the rich Tuccú alla Genovese. Next comes a Ragú al … Continue reading

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Posted in Beef, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Food of the Ancients, Food travel, IGP, Nonna's Cooking, Origins of our food, Real Italy, Simple Food, Southern Italy, Terroir, The Moors | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

“Peppa’s, Yer Peppa’s, Pahnd-a-Bohl!”

In these bankster-induced tough, purse stretched times, that street markets are selling fresh fruit and vegetables at £1 a bowl is not just welcome, it’s a gift for the canny shopper. Listen out for the barrow boys’ throaty calls of “Pahnd-a-Bohl!”. The … Continue reading

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Posted in Aubergine, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Eggplant, Kitchen Tips, melanzane, Real Italy, Richard Olney, Simple Food, Southern Italy, supermarkets, Techniques | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

I Found my Apulian Fava

Surrealism is a near daily overly used and, worse, largely misunderstood term. When you walk into London’s Queen’s Club, past three shiny patent leather black Maybach’s into a simple dining room overlooking immaculate tennis courts to meet Peppe Zullo – that’s surreal. Maybach’s stand for vulgar … Continue reading

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Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Archaeology and Food, Aubergine, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Eggplant, Food of the Ancients, Ligurian, melanzane, Origins of our food, peasant cooking, Pugliese, Real Italy, Southern Italy, Terroir, The Moors | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Ambassadors with Molto Gusto

Let me share with you a little known secret. In the lower ground floor of a fine townhouse in one of London’s most exclusive squares, there is a tiny restaurant which completely changes its theme near monthly. Two flags hang above … Continue reading

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Posted in Alcohol, Basil, Best Pasta, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Ligurian, New Chefs, Nonna's Cooking, Origins of our food, Real Italy, Rice, Simple Food, Southern Italy, The Moors, Wine Making and Viticulture | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Feta that’ll not Make you Feta’r

You all know the expression in English ‘as different as chalk and cheese’ – I’d reckon it must have been dreamed up to describe Feta cheese. Most Feta on sale is one-dimensional, chalky, overly saline and utterly pointless. The original barrel-aged Feta, … Continue reading

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Posted in Archaeology and Food, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Citrus Fruit, DOP, Food of the Ancients, IGP, Ingredients, Origins of our food, Real Italy, Salad, Salad and Digestion, Seasoning, Simple Food, Southern Italy | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Love Apples, Fakery and Greed

When the tomato was first brought back from the New America’s to Spain – and nearly a century later diplomatically ‘gifted’ to Naples by the Spanish Court - it was thought to be highly decorative, but poisonous. It was a daring courtier who … Continue reading

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Posted in Basil, Best Pasta, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, DOP, French Markets, IGP, Ingredients, Nonna's Cooking, Real Italy, Simple Food, Southern Italy, supermarkets, The Food Business | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments