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Category Archives: Simple Food
‘Grass is ‘Sparagus
A weekend comes on us with promises of continuous fine weather and we are deep into the English asparagus season which correctly ends on Mid-Summer Night’s Eve. Please may I pass on tips (sic). First buy asparagus that is fresh … Continue reading
First Choose Your Trotter, then Find Your Feet
Pig’s trotters were elevated from food of the immigrant poor to a delicacy for wealthy Londoners around 35 years ago. Pierre Koffmann, probably the finest French chef in London since Auguste Escoffier and Michel Bourdin left town, made the pig’s trotter his … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Great Chefs, London Dining, No Compromise Shopping, pied de Porc, Pork, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, Trotters, Vinegars
Tagged 'In Search of TASTE' Magazine, Au Pied de Cochon, Auguste Escoffier, Bearnaise Sauce, Brasserie Lipp, Charcutier, Elizabeth David, Estramadura, FDIN, Jamon Iberico, Koffmann's Knightsbridge, Koffmann's Pieds de Porc, Michel Bourdin, Morrison's Supermarket, Pata Negra, Pieds de Porc Truffes, Pierre Koffmann, Plebeian Food, Saucier, Ste Menehould, Waxy Potato Varieties
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Mobile Speck Knodel & Strudel
After 15 or more years working in high pressure restaurant kitchens, with their long hours and back-to-back shifts, Franz Schinagl knew he had to break free from his last posting as chef at Asia de Cuba. “As exciting as it was, I became so thin and … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Austrian Cooking, Beef, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Bread, Curing and Smoking, Good Potatoes, Onions, Pork, Rare Roast Sirloin, Salad, Simple Food, Slicing Machine, Stocks and Stock Making, Veal, Wines
Tagged Advantage Austria, Apples, Asparagus - white or green, Austrian Wine, Bermondsey, Bodo's Schloss, Chef Karl Eschlboek, Fergus Henderson, Franz Schinagl, Knodel, Marco Steiner, Nuernberger Sausages, Oma's, Raisins, Schnitzel, Speck Mobile, St John Bakery, Stroh Rum, Strudel
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The Bretons’ Best Silver
How can one improve on eating sardines? The little fish described by London chef Rowley Leigh of Le Café Anglais as ‘the rabbits of the piscatorial world’. Wouldn’t we prefer this Chef/Writer had kept his English plainer and written ‘sea’, but otherwise I loved what he said, specially … Continue reading
Posted in Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Bread, Fish, Food of the Ancients, French supermarkets, Harry's Bar, Label Rouge, Simple Food, supermarkets, Terroir, The Food Business, Venice, Vinegars
Tagged Ancient Rome, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brasserie Lipp, Brittany, Cancale, Colatura di Alici from Amalfi, Connétable, Douarnenez, Garum, Le Guilvinec, Napoleon, Nicolas Appert, Sarde e Soar, Sardines, Sardines de Millesime, Venice, Vintage Sardines, W Chancerelle, www.gustiamo.com
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Schmaltz, Oma style
With more and more UK food stores, from hypermarket barns to our neighbourhood late night shops, most times now stocking Duck or Goose Fat and some delicatessens even selling Italian Lardo, a third option is missing. It’s where we should go next. … Continue reading
Posted in Austrian Cooking, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Bread, Comforting Foods, Curing and Smoking, Fish, Good Potatoes, Graisse d'oie and Confit de Canard, Simple Food, Smoked Fish, South West French Cuisine, Terroir
Tagged 'In Search of TASTE', 'Nose to Tail' Eating, Austrian Cooking, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Fergus Henderson, Horseradish, Knoddel, Knusper Grammeln, Kren, Meerettich, Oma's Cooking, Roggen Brot, Rye Bread, Schmaltz, Styria, Tewksbury Mustard
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Katie or Kate’s Great Legacy
The world of food and cookery writing lost a hero a few weeks ago. Much saddened as we are to lose a friend, we lost Katie’s writing about a decade earlier when she retired from the mainstream. In what was to … Continue reading
Posted in Seasoning, Sensory Cooking, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, Subsidised Food Production, Techniques, Terroir, Watercress
Tagged Anthony Blake. Cuckfield, Cookery Writers, Daily Telegraph, Fideua, Food Writers, Katie Stewart, Le Cordon Bleu. Avenue Foch, Longhouse Kitchens, Longhouse Workshops, paella, Risotto, Roll and Diamond Cutting Chinese style, Simpson's-in-the-Strand, The Guardian, The Times, Watercress Dinners, Watercress in Hampshire
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A Perfumed Potager in L’Orne
There are buds showing and daffodils coming up right now all showing us Nature’s rebirth, but a finely tended garden in mid-summer is another thing altogether. I saved this piece for our winter time with the intention of delighting my readers. I write … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Bread, Chicken, Food travel, French Regional Foods, Organic Food, Pigeoneau, Poulet Fermiers, Salad, Salad and Digestion, Simple Food, Terroir
Tagged 'The Scented Kitchen' by Frances Bissell, Boudin noir, Calvados, Cider, Cidre, Eco-Tourisme, Floc de Gasgogne, L'Orne, Mortagne-au-Perche, Normandy, Pineau de Charentes, Pommeau, Potager, Prospect Books, Raymond Blanc. Chateau de Villiers, Serif Books, Tom Jaine
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