Category Archives: Poulet
First Catch, then Cook Your Poularde
Contrary to what we thought, Hannah Glasse never wrote that immortal phrase ‘first catch your hare’ – an instruction she was credited with from one of the very first English language cook books from 1747 - ‘The Art of Cookery’ - reproduced so lovingly by … Continue reading
Press(e) on to Bresse
Eurostar to Paris, a noisy RER to Gare de Lyon, then a drink for old time’s sake in the crowded salon of Le Train Bleu and lastly, as night had fallen, onto the two tier TGV to Dijon – that’s how my trip … Continue reading
Carrette & Schtick
Ah the joy. I met a young Michelin-starred chef recently in Tournus. His cooking was all we’d expect from a boy who come through Peter Kromberg’s kitchen in London to then finish his training at the eminent Troisgros restaurant in Roanne, with … Continue reading
What Bresse Farmers have with Coffee
It’s 06h00 in the Salle de la Grenette in Louhans – pitch black outside and temperature hovering around 0°C. The street outside is lined left and right with little camionettes, most white (aren’t they always) and many proudly displaying the distinctive ‘bleu, blanc, … Continue reading
First in Britain – ‘Le Grand Maitre’ at Our Table
A text message pings in from Arnaud, a guy I’ve never met – “meet me on Smithfield Market in the morning at 06h00″ he wrote. Arnaud visits London once a month to look after the affairs of Loué, my favourite poultry … Continue reading
A Welter to Come whatever the Weather
Back 36 hours late from Normandy at 04h00 today - my visit extended from L’Orne to Le Sarthe and Les Pays de Loire. I had a pigeonneau hatch from the egg in front of me – probably destined for a Michelin star kitchen. I … Continue reading
