Category Archives: Poulet Fermier
Camionettes Come Laden with Promises
Ask yourself where in Europe are food markets at their strongest and part of the answer is trucks as much as treats. The French reign supreme with their ingeniously constructed Camionettes du Marchés. The closest we might get are the traditional silver and … Continue reading
Tripe’s neither Tripe nor Trite
Swallow hard, get over your fear of wobbly foods and take a forkfull of tripe. Prepared as they do across Europe, tripe only ever disappoints if the cook is a lightweight. Tripes à la mode de Caen is a mainstay of French … Continue reading
Press(e) on to Bresse
Eurostar to Paris, a noisy RER to Gare de Lyon, then a drink for old time’s sake in the crowded salon of Le Train Bleu and lastly, as night had fallen, onto the two tier TGV to Dijon – that’s how my trip … Continue reading
Carrette & Schtick
Ah the joy. I met a young Michelin-starred chef recently in Tournus. His cooking was all we’d expect from a boy who come through Peter Kromberg’s kitchen in London to then finish his training at the eminent Troisgros restaurant in Roanne, with … Continue reading
What Bresse Farmers have with Coffee
It’s 06h00 in the Salle de la Grenette in Louhans – pitch black outside and temperature hovering around 0°C. The street outside is lined left and right with little camionettes, most white (aren’t they always) and many proudly displaying the distinctive ‘bleu, blanc, … Continue reading
First in Britain – ‘Le Grand Maitre’ at Our Table
A text message pings in from Arnaud, a guy I’ve never met – “meet me on Smithfield Market in the morning at 06h00″ he wrote. Arnaud visits London once a month to look after the affairs of Loué, my favourite poultry … Continue reading
