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Category Archives: Memories
Deh-Ta Hsiung – The Quiet Revolutionary
When Deh-Ta Hsiung walked down the gangway of the P&O SS ‘Corfu’ and came ashore at Tilbury on Boxing Day in 1949, he was young man arriving in the right place at the right time. He was just 17 and that time … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Burgundy, Chicken, Classic Rice Dishes, Dim-Sum, Fish, Food Influencers, Foraging, Game, Ginger, London Dining, Memories, Onions, Pork, Real Chinese Cooking, Rice, Traditions at Table, Vinegars, Wines
Tagged 'Lady Precious Stream', Ballymaloe Co Cork, Bean Sprouts, Chinatowns, Cognac, Deh-Ta Hsiung, Dim-Sum, Dylan Thomas, Festival of Britain, Kai-Lu Hsiung, Ken Hom, Ken Lo, Oxford, Peking, Rice Wine, Ridley Scott, Royal College of Art, Sherry & Port, Shih I Hsiung, Slade Art School
3 Comments
Liguria: Plotkin’s Paradise, Panizza’s Pesto
Paradise is a word never to be employed lightly, it being too special to be devalued by mis-use. I’ve been in touch with a man who uses the ‘paradise’ word with every last gram of passion and meaning that it is due - and I … Continue reading
Posted in Basil, Best Pasta, Coffee, DOP, DOP Basilico Genovese, Food travel, Genoa, Il Genovese Restaurant, Ligurian, Memories, Mercato Orientale, Pesto alla Genovese, Pesto alla Genovese, Real Italy, Terroir, Veal, Vitellone
Tagged 'Il Genovese' on Via Galata, 'Recipes from Paradise', Basil, Brown and Company, Byron, Camogli, Charles Dickens, Cinqueterre, DH Lawrence, DOP Basil, Fred Plotkin, La Spezia, Little, M&S Deli's, Mercato Orientale, Pesato alla Genovese, Pesto Rossi, Roberto Panizza, Shelley, The Gulf of Poets
10 Comments
Fiddleheads and Pig Cheeks
Friday morning and up well before 06h00 to prepare and cook Pig’s Cheeks so we have special dinner when our boys and a school friend come home tonight – and we return from a very cold East Sussex. Follow the thread and … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Kitchen Tips, Memories, Seasoning, Simple Food
Tagged Bracken, Braising, Cartouche, Cornichons, Cottage Pie, Fern Fronds, Fiddlehead Ferns, Katie Stewart RIP, Lancashire Hot Pot, Les Joues de Cochons, Les Joues de Porc, Maine, Nicotine, Oregano, Pickled Red Cabbage, Pickled Walnuts, Pickles, Pig Cheeks, Sauteing, Shepherd's Pie, Wild Sicilian Origano
1 Comment
Carrette & Schtick
Ah the joy. I met a young Michelin-starred chef recently in Tournus. His cooking was all we’d expect from a boy who come through Peter Kromberg’s kitchen in London to then finish his training at the eminent Troisgros restaurant in Roanne, with … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, AOC, Burgundy, Capon, Chicken, Foie Gras, Food travel, French Regional Foods, Great Chefs, Guinea Fowl, Hen's and Bantam's Eggs, London Dining, Memories, New Chefs, Perfect Eggs, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet Fermier, Speciality Chicken, Terroir
Tagged AOC Poulet de Bresse, Champignons de Paris, Cote Loisirs, Cotes de Maconnais, Jean-Michel Carrette (Chef), Jura, Les Eleveurs de Bresse, Les Freres Troisgros, Morels, Morilles, Peter Kromberg, Reidel Glass, Restaurant Aux Terrasses, RN6, Tournus, Troisgros, Vin Jaune
3 Comments
‘In Search of TASTE’
I’ve some big news to share with all – and especially those who doff their hats to Blue Collar Gastronomy and have followed my writing these past two years since I kicked off in an icy Pont de Vaux (Bresse) … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Food Influencers, Food of the Ancients, food politics, Food Scams, Food travel, Ingredients, Memories, Nature, No Compromise Shopping, Techniques, Terroir, The Food Business, Traditions at Table, True Innovation, Wine Making and Viticulture
Tagged 'In Search of TASTE', 'The Art of Eating', Blue Collar Gastronomy, British Media, Columnists, Food Writing, Gareth Jones, Keith Reeves, Savennieres, St Chinian, Wine writing
7 Comments
The Joy that’s Dim Sum
Dim-Sum slipped quietly and without fuss into London’s then new Chinatown district in the late 70s. Like so much of the Chinese kitchen, they like to keep stuff to themselves. The Dim-Sum was mainly to attract the then growing bands of Chinese … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassica's, Chicken, Dim-Sum, Fish, London Dining, Memories, Oysters and Shellfish, Real Chinese Cooking, Rice
Tagged Air Bladder of the fish, Authentic Chinese Cooking, Best Value Eating in London, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Cheun-Fung, Chickens' Feet, Chilli Sauce and Oil, Chinese Beers, Chinese Kitchen God, Chinese Tea, Chop Stick Etiquette, Cognac, Cognac from Teapots, Dim-Sim, Duck Webs, Fish Maw, Joy King Lau, Norman Han, Sherry, Spectator Scoff, Tea Etiquette, Wafer Wrapped Prawns
6 Comments
Cicchetti with Mozart, Utopia and Friendship
If history writes right, pity that first barman down in Seville who is famously recorded to have placed a slice of bread over a customer’s glass of wine on the marble-topped bar to keep out the flies – and with that, tapas … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Aubergine, Basil, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Bread, Cicchetti, Memories, Real Italy, Venice
Tagged Aperol Spritz, Caffe Florian, Caffe Quaddri, Carrara, Cicchetti, Euphonia Works, Farinata, Gennaro's Delicatessen, Genoa, Italian Food Express at Gennaro's, Lardo di Collanata, Mostarda di Cremona, Mozart, Ombra Bacari, Polenta, Provolone Picante, Rincons, Seville, Stradivarius, Tamsin Waley-Cohen, Tapas
2 Comments