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Category Archives: Great Chefs
First Choose Your Trotter, then Find Your Feet
Pig’s trotters were elevated from food of the immigrant poor to a delicacy for wealthy Londoners around 35 years ago. Pierre Koffmann, probably the finest French chef in London since Auguste Escoffier and Michel Bourdin left town, made the pig’s trotter his … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Great Chefs, London Dining, No Compromise Shopping, pied de Porc, Pork, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, Trotters, Vinegars
Tagged 'In Search of TASTE' Magazine, Au Pied de Cochon, Auguste Escoffier, Bearnaise Sauce, Brasserie Lipp, Charcutier, Elizabeth David, Estramadura, FDIN, Jamon Iberico, Koffmann's Knightsbridge, Koffmann's Pieds de Porc, Michel Bourdin, Morrison's Supermarket, Pata Negra, Pieds de Porc Truffes, Pierre Koffmann, Plebeian Food, Saucier, Ste Menehould, Waxy Potato Varieties
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Sauce Source
Why does sauce making get folks into such a proper lather? Gravies and sauces get confused. How to present a dish in its full glory? The routine is familiar and would have been heard in a million or more homes … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Batterie, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Burgundy, Chicken, Citrus Fruit, Fonds and Jus, Great Chefs, Onions, Stocks and Stock Making, Wild Funghi
Tagged Airelles, Aromatics, Auguste Escoffier, Calvados, Citrus, Cognac, Confits, Dried Porcini, Escoffier, Fonds, Fumets, Good Vinegars, Sauciers, Stocks, Wine
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Press(e) on to Bresse
Eurostar to Paris, a noisy RER to Gare de Lyon, then a drink for old time’s sake in the crowded salon of Le Train Bleu and lastly, as night had fallen, onto the two tier TGV to Dijon – that’s how my trip … Continue reading
Posted in AOC, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Burgundy, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, Foie Gras, Food Influencers, Food Marketeers, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Great Chefs, New Chefs, No Compromise Shopping, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet de Gournay, Poulet Fermier, Terroir
Tagged AOC, AOP, Bourg-en-Bresse, Bourgogne Tourisme, Caponisation, Chapons, CIVB, Gastronomy, Henri IV, La Gauloise de Bresse Blanche, Le Poule au Pot, Les Glorieuses de Bresse, Louhans, Montrevel-en-Bresse, Pont de Vaux, Poulardes, Poulets de Bresse, Volaille de Bresse, White Maize
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Carrette & Schtick
Ah the joy. I met a young Michelin-starred chef recently in Tournus. His cooking was all we’d expect from a boy who come through Peter Kromberg’s kitchen in London to then finish his training at the eminent Troisgros restaurant in Roanne, with … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, AOC, Burgundy, Capon, Chicken, Foie Gras, Food travel, French Regional Foods, Great Chefs, Guinea Fowl, Hen's and Bantam's Eggs, London Dining, Memories, New Chefs, Perfect Eggs, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet Fermier, Speciality Chicken, Terroir
Tagged AOC Poulet de Bresse, Champignons de Paris, Cote Loisirs, Cotes de Maconnais, Jean-Michel Carrette (Chef), Jura, Les Eleveurs de Bresse, Les Freres Troisgros, Morels, Morilles, Peter Kromberg, Reidel Glass, Restaurant Aux Terrasses, RN6, Tournus, Troisgros, Vin Jaune
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Guild and Save the Corniotte
I told you about Les Corniottes, the speciality from Louhans (Bresse). I brought as many as my luggage could hold – along with my treasured Poularde de Bresse en Roulé - back to London and even No 19 (my family) couldn’t … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, AOC, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Burgundy, Food travel, Great Chefs, Left Overs, New Chefs, Simple Food
Tagged Burgundy, Corniottes, Jean-Michel Carrette (Chef), Left Overs, Les Corniottes de Louhans, Madeira, Marsala, Panetone, Passito di Pantelleria, Restaurant Aux Terrasses, Talmouse, Tournus
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The ‘Heavyweight’ Lady Boxer
I write from time to time about how my life is a duopoly of luck and discovery. The people I meet lead me to places and products which are of that simplicity and authenticity that so many can only dream of – … Continue reading
Posted in American Dishes, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Classic Rice Dishes, Food travel, French Markets, Great Chefs, London Dining, Simple Food, Techniques, Terroir
Tagged Anissa Helou, Arabella Boxer, Arabella Boxer's Book of English Food, Beatrice Miller, David Bailey, English Food, Evelyn Waugh, Lady Arabella Boxer, Lady Metroland, Penguin Books, Tessa Traeger, Vogue Magazine
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Pigeonneau is No Pigeon-You-Know
If an Egg-on-Legs is a country mile from a Poulet Fermier, then let the same be said of the gracious Pigeonneau from its too often mistaken equivalent, the feral wood pigeon. Pigeons have always been message couriers, from the Ark, through sieges … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Archaeology and Food, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Food of the Ancients, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Great Chefs, Greek Cooking, Pigeoneau
Tagged 'Crop Milk', Ancient Rome, Anjou, Dovecotes, Duif, ers, LDC, Les Charmilles, Loue, Non GM feed, Persia, Pigeoneau, Pigeonneau, Pigeonneaux, Pliny the Elder, Reuters News Agency, Sans OGM feeding, Sarthe, T'convent Restaurant, Toits d'Eglises
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