Category Archives: French supermarkets
First Choose Your Trotter, then Find Your Feet
Pig’s trotters were elevated from food of the immigrant poor to a delicacy for wealthy Londoners around 35 years ago. Pierre Koffmann, probably the finest French chef in London since Auguste Escoffier and Michel Bourdin left town, made the pig’s trotter his … Continue reading
Flat Eggs and the Omelette Poulard
Driving through Eastern France about 20 years ago, en-route to Germany with an American who’d never been out of the US was stressful – a road trip that I wished I’d never agreed to. Kerouac’s ‘On The Road’ it wasn’t. My passenger … Continue reading
Press(e) on to Bresse
Eurostar to Paris, a noisy RER to Gare de Lyon, then a drink for old time’s sake in the crowded salon of Le Train Bleu and lastly, as night had fallen, onto the two tier TGV to Dijon – that’s how my trip … Continue reading
Fish Foie Gras?
Sometimes we get to shop in near Heaven – we did last week when we escaped the supermarket and took our money to the real marketplace. This is where most traders are experts and conversation is encouraged. You engage and they love … Continue reading
Kippers and Tea in Le Treport
I love kippers – fresh landed herrings cured (split from head to tail, salted and cold smoked) in the traditional way on ‘tenterhooks’. They are so much a part of both the English culinary culture and the language – as the terms ‘to be kippered’ … Continue reading
First in Britain – ‘Le Grand Maitre’ at Our Table
A text message pings in from Arnaud, a guy I’ve never met – “meet me on Smithfield Market in the morning at 06h00″ he wrote. Arnaud visits London once a month to look after the affairs of Loué, my favourite poultry … Continue reading
