Category Archives: French supermarkets

First Choose Your Trotter, then Find Your Feet

Pig’s trotters were elevated from food of the immigrant poor to a delicacy for wealthy Londoners around 35 years ago. Pierre Koffmann, probably the finest French chef  in London since Auguste Escoffier and Michel Bourdin left town, made the pig’s trotter his … Continue reading

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Posted in Alcohol, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Great Chefs, London Dining, No Compromise Shopping, pied de Porc, Pork, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, Trotters, Vinegars | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

Flat Eggs and the Omelette Poulard

Driving through Eastern France about 20 years ago, en-route to Germany with an American who’d never been out of the US was stressful – a road trip that I wished I’d never agreed to.  Kerouac’s ‘On The Road’ it wasn’t. My passenger … Continue reading

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Posted in Blue Collar Gastronomy, French Markets, French supermarkets, Hen's and Bantam's Eggs, Perfect Eggs, Real Italy, supermarkets | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

The Bretons’ Best Silver

How can one improve on eating sardines? The little fish described by London chef Rowley Leigh of Le Café Anglais as ‘the rabbits of the piscatorial world’. Wouldn’t we prefer this Chef/Writer had kept his English plainer and written ‘sea’, but otherwise I loved what he said, specially … Continue reading

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Posted in Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Bread, Fish, Food of the Ancients, French supermarkets, Harry's Bar, Label Rouge, Simple Food, supermarkets, Terroir, The Food Business, Venice, Vinegars | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Press(e) on to Bresse

Eurostar to Paris, a noisy RER to Gare de Lyon, then a drink for old time’s sake in the crowded salon of Le Train Bleu and lastly, as night had fallen, onto the two tier TGV to Dijon – that’s how my trip … Continue reading

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Posted in AOC, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Burgundy, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, Foie Gras, Food Influencers, Food Marketeers, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Great Chefs, New Chefs, No Compromise Shopping, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet de Gournay, Poulet Fermier, Terroir | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Fish Foie Gras?

Sometimes we get to shop in near Heaven – we did last week when we escaped the supermarket and took our money to the real marketplace.  This is where most traders are experts and conversation is encouraged. You engage and they love … Continue reading

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Posted in Alliums, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Fish, Foie Gras, French Markets, French supermarkets, Sensory Cooking, Simple Food, Techniques, The Food Business | 3 Comments

Kippers and Tea in Le Treport

I love kippers – fresh landed herrings cured (split from head to tail, salted and cold smoked) in the traditional way on ‘tenterhooks’. They are so much a part of both the English culinary culture and the language –  as the terms ‘to be kippered’ … Continue reading

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Posted in Alcohol, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Coffee, Curing and Smoking, French supermarkets, Oysters and Shellfish, Smoked Fish, The Food Business | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

First in Britain – ‘Le Grand Maitre’ at Our Table

A text message pings in from Arnaud, a guy I’ve never met – “meet me on Smithfield Market in the morning at 06h00″ he wrote. Arnaud visits London once a month to look after the affairs of Loué, my favourite poultry … Continue reading

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Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Capon, Caponisation, Cazuela, Chicken, Fonds and Jus, Food Influencers, Food Marketeers, food politics, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Guinea Fowl, IGP, Label Rouge, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet Fermier, Poulet Fermiers, Risotto, Salad, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Terroir | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments