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Category Archives: Fonds and Jus
Sauce Source
Why does sauce making get folks into such a proper lather? Gravies and sauces get confused. How to present a dish in its full glory? The routine is familiar and would have been heard in a million or more homes … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Batterie, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Burgundy, Chicken, Citrus Fruit, Fonds and Jus, Great Chefs, Onions, Stocks and Stock Making, Wild Funghi
Tagged Airelles, Aromatics, Auguste Escoffier, Calvados, Citrus, Cognac, Confits, Dried Porcini, Escoffier, Fonds, Fumets, Good Vinegars, Sauciers, Stocks, Wine
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First Catch, then Cook Your Poularde
Contrary to what we thought, Hannah Glasse never wrote that immortal phrase ‘first catch your hare’ – an instruction she was credited with from one of the very first English language cook books from 1747 - ‘The Art of Cookery’ - reproduced so lovingly by … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, AOC, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Burgundy, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, Fonds and Jus, French Regional Foods, Guinea Fowl, Left Overs, No Compromise Shopping, Poulet, Rice, Risotto, Speciality Chicken, Stocks and Stock Making, Terroir, Vinegars
Tagged 'First Catch Your Hare', 'The Art of Cookery', AOC Poulet de Bresse, Champagne Vinegar, Chapon de Pintade, Chapon du Canard, Charbonneax-Brabant, Clovis Vinegar, Galette des Rois, Hannah Glasse, King's Night, Les Glorieuses de Bresse, Loue, Louhans, poularde de Bresse, Pre-Alpi Butters, Prospect Books, Rheinpfalz, Riesling, The Bresse d'Or, Vinaigre de Reims
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Feasting at Family Table with a Fine Man
A weekend of feasting ended last evening with a dinner centred on Risotto alla Milanese – the saffron-infused risotto sometimes served with classic Osso Buco. In a week when a friend – known to all as The Pocket Chef* -pointed out … Continue reading
Posted in Alliums, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassica's, Brassica's, Fish, Fonds and Jus, Game, Good Potatoes, Healing Foods, Label Rouge, Risotto, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Traditions at Table
Tagged Brussels Sprouts, Caper Sauce for Trout, Capon's of Rochester, Crushed Potatoes, Flageolet Beans, Frightening the beans, Haggis, Hotel Westminster Le Touquet, Isle of Man Lamb, Label Rouge, Lancashire Moss, Macsween's Haggis, Morrison's, Roast Pheasant, The Pocket Chef, www.walkwithjoy.com
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First in Britain – ‘Le Grand Maitre’ at Our Table
A text message pings in from Arnaud, a guy I’ve never met – “meet me on Smithfield Market in the morning at 06h00″ he wrote. Arnaud visits London once a month to look after the affairs of Loué, my favourite poultry … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Capon, Caponisation, Cazuela, Chicken, Fonds and Jus, Food Influencers, Food Marketeers, food politics, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Guinea Fowl, IGP, Label Rouge, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet Fermier, Poulet Fermiers, Risotto, Salad, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Terroir
Tagged Bastille Day, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Genetically Modified Foods, Henri IV, Hybrid Chickens, Jasnieres, July 14, LDC, Le Gout, Le Mans, Loue, Maine et Loire, Monsanto, Pays de Loire, Poule au Pot, Poulet Roti, Quatorze Juillet, Sans OGM, Sarthe, Savennieres, Smithfield Market
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Trots to the Pot
You like pig’s feet – les pieds du porc, manitas de cerdo, schweinstrüße, etc? I love them and always have since my Welsh grandmother would prepare them for me as a child, much to the chagrin of my mother who … Continue reading
Posted in Blue Collar Gastronomy, Comforting Foods, Fonds and Jus, French Regional Foods, Game, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Techniques, Veal
Tagged Agnes B, Au Pied du Cochon, Aux Pieds des Cochons, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Cottechino, E Dehilleren, Les Halles, Les Halles Paris, Levoni of Mantova, Onion Soup, Pieds du Porc, Pierre Koffmann, Pig's Trotters, Rungis, Stock Making, Zampone
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Medieval Nightime Quarry, or the Early Beginnings of Take-Away
In grand houses across Europe, the more so in France, pigeoneau played as vital a role to subsistence and feasting as the deer park and the local river. Pigeonniers are an architechural feature of chateaux and manoirs large and small. There … Continue reading
Board a Red Eye Ferry for your Festive Food
Seeming to have only just fallen asleep, my ‘phone alarm goes off at 04h00 - it’s the Thursday before Christmas Day. Out of bed, showered, coffee’d – one sugar please - and we on our way on near empty roads to the port. … Continue reading
Posted in Alliums, Archaeology and Food, Batterie, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, Foie Gras, Fonds and Jus, Food of the Ancients, French supermarkets, Fruits Glace, Graisse d'oie and Confit de Canard, Great Chefs, Label Rouge, Oysters and Shellfish, Poulet Fermiers, South West French Cuisine, Speciality Chicken, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Terroir
Tagged Boulogne-sur-Mer, Bouzique Oysters, Champagne, Choucroute, Christmas Table, Confits, Foie Gras, Fresh Foie Gras, Georges Blanc, Glorieuses de Bresse, Leclerc, Pigeoneau, Sauce Making, Shopping made a Pleasure not a Chore, Speciality Potatoes, St Vaast Oysters, The Christmas Feast
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