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Category Archives: Caponisation
First Catch, then Cook Your Poularde
Contrary to what we thought, Hannah Glasse never wrote that immortal phrase ‘first catch your hare’ – an instruction she was credited with from one of the very first English language cook books from 1747 - ‘The Art of Cookery’ - reproduced so lovingly by … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, AOC, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Burgundy, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, Fonds and Jus, French Regional Foods, Guinea Fowl, Left Overs, No Compromise Shopping, Poulet, Rice, Risotto, Speciality Chicken, Stocks and Stock Making, Terroir, Vinegars
Tagged 'First Catch Your Hare', 'The Art of Cookery', AOC Poulet de Bresse, Champagne Vinegar, Chapon de Pintade, Chapon du Canard, Charbonneax-Brabant, Clovis Vinegar, Galette des Rois, Hannah Glasse, King's Night, Les Glorieuses de Bresse, Loue, Louhans, poularde de Bresse, Pre-Alpi Butters, Prospect Books, Rheinpfalz, Riesling, The Bresse d'Or, Vinaigre de Reims
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A Poularde is just for Christmas
Some things stay special because they remain a treat. Make turkey, asparagus, strawberries, raspberries, ‘new’ potatoes and their like year-round available, and out goes both eating quality and sense of occasion. Food marketeers and their retail friends will have much to … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, AOC, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, Speciality Chicken, Techniques, Terroir
Tagged AOC Poulet de Bresse, Aux Terrasses (Tournus), Beaujolais, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Boulogne-Outreau, Bresse-Bourgogne, Chapon de Bresse, Cotes de Maconnais, Dean & DeLuca Japan, Jean-Michel Carrette (Chef), Macon, Macon-Lugny, poularde de Bresse
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Press(e) on to Bresse
Eurostar to Paris, a noisy RER to Gare de Lyon, then a drink for old time’s sake in the crowded salon of Le Train Bleu and lastly, as night had fallen, onto the two tier TGV to Dijon – that’s how my trip … Continue reading
Posted in AOC, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Burgundy, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, Foie Gras, Food Influencers, Food Marketeers, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Great Chefs, New Chefs, No Compromise Shopping, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet de Gournay, Poulet Fermier, Terroir
Tagged AOC, AOP, Bourg-en-Bresse, Bourgogne Tourisme, Caponisation, Chapons, CIVB, Gastronomy, Henri IV, La Gauloise de Bresse Blanche, Le Poule au Pot, Les Glorieuses de Bresse, Louhans, Montrevel-en-Bresse, Pont de Vaux, Poulardes, Poulets de Bresse, Volaille de Bresse, White Maize
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First in Britain – ‘Le Grand Maitre’ at Our Table
A text message pings in from Arnaud, a guy I’ve never met – “meet me on Smithfield Market in the morning at 06h00″ he wrote. Arnaud visits London once a month to look after the affairs of Loué, my favourite poultry … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Capon, Caponisation, Cazuela, Chicken, Fonds and Jus, Food Influencers, Food Marketeers, food politics, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Guinea Fowl, IGP, Label Rouge, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet Fermier, Poulet Fermiers, Risotto, Salad, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Terroir
Tagged Bastille Day, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Genetically Modified Foods, Henri IV, Hybrid Chickens, Jasnieres, July 14, LDC, Le Gout, Le Mans, Loue, Maine et Loire, Monsanto, Pays de Loire, Poule au Pot, Poulet Roti, Quatorze Juillet, Sans OGM, Sarthe, Savennieres, Smithfield Market
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The Grand Maitre d’Affaires who’s bringing us ‘Le Grand Maitre’
Grand Mâitre is not a title to taken lightly in France. Originally used as a mark of reverence to France’s greatest of all chefs and gastronomic chroniclers - such as Escoffier, Brillat-Savarin, Curnosky and others back in the 18/19th centuries, to the more recent ‘mâitres’ … Continue reading
Posted in Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, French Markets, French supermarkets, Great Chefs, Guinea Fowl, Hen's and Bantam's Eggs, IGP, Label Rouge, Latest Trends, Perfect Eggs, Poulet de Gournay, Poulet Fermier, Speciality Chicken, Terroir
Tagged Brasserie Lipp, Chapon de Pintade, Chapons, Gaston Lenotre, Guinea Fowl, IGP, Label Rouge, Le Mans, Loue Grand Maitre, LoueNormandy, Normandy Butter, Oeufs de Loue, Poulardes, Poulet Fermier, Salon International de l'Agricole, Sarthe, Sel de Guerande, SIA 2012, St Michel Biscuits, Yves de la Fourchardiere
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Board a Red Eye Ferry for your Festive Food
Seeming to have only just fallen asleep, my ‘phone alarm goes off at 04h00 - it’s the Thursday before Christmas Day. Out of bed, showered, coffee’d – one sugar please - and we on our way on near empty roads to the port. … Continue reading
Posted in Alliums, Archaeology and Food, Batterie, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, Foie Gras, Fonds and Jus, Food of the Ancients, French supermarkets, Fruits Glace, Graisse d'oie and Confit de Canard, Great Chefs, Label Rouge, Oysters and Shellfish, Poulet Fermiers, South West French Cuisine, Speciality Chicken, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Terroir
Tagged Boulogne-sur-Mer, Bouzique Oysters, Champagne, Choucroute, Christmas Table, Confits, Foie Gras, Fresh Foie Gras, Georges Blanc, Glorieuses de Bresse, Leclerc, Pigeoneau, Sauce Making, Shopping made a Pleasure not a Chore, Speciality Potatoes, St Vaast Oysters, The Christmas Feast
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Ah, Les Glorieuses de Bresse 2012
In just over a week’s time I’ll be driving across France to the south of Burgundy – the Maconnais – to celebrate the 150th Glorieuses de Bresse. Here, farmers – known as eleveurs – bring their finest birds to be … Continue reading