Category Archives: Capon
First Catch, then Cook Your Poularde
Contrary to what we thought, Hannah Glasse never wrote that immortal phrase ‘first catch your hare’ – an instruction she was credited with from one of the very first English language cook books from 1747 - ‘The Art of Cookery’ - reproduced so lovingly by … Continue reading
A Poularde is just for Christmas
Some things stay special because they remain a treat. Make turkey, asparagus, strawberries, raspberries, ‘new’ potatoes and their like year-round available, and out goes both eating quality and sense of occasion. Food marketeers and their retail friends will have much to … Continue reading
Press(e) on to Bresse
Eurostar to Paris, a noisy RER to Gare de Lyon, then a drink for old time’s sake in the crowded salon of Le Train Bleu and lastly, as night had fallen, onto the two tier TGV to Dijon – that’s how my trip … Continue reading
Carrette & Schtick
Ah the joy. I met a young Michelin-starred chef recently in Tournus. His cooking was all we’d expect from a boy who come through Peter Kromberg’s kitchen in London to then finish his training at the eminent Troisgros restaurant in Roanne, with … Continue reading
First in Britain – ‘Le Grand Maitre’ at Our Table
A text message pings in from Arnaud, a guy I’ve never met – “meet me on Smithfield Market in the morning at 06h00″ he wrote. Arnaud visits London once a month to look after the affairs of Loué, my favourite poultry … Continue reading
The Grand Maitre d’Affaires who’s bringing us ‘Le Grand Maitre’
Grand Mâitre is not a title to taken lightly in France. Originally used as a mark of reverence to France’s greatest of all chefs and gastronomic chroniclers - such as Escoffier, Brillat-Savarin, Curnosky and others back in the 18/19th centuries, to the more recent ‘mâitres’ … Continue reading
SIA 2012 will be Ferrets to Foie Gras, Fine Foods and All
Excitement builds across France this week, as well as for this writer - I’m like a 5 year old those few days before Christmas Eve. Why? Because we are a few days off the opening of the ‘grande spectacle’ that is the 2012 … Continue reading
