Category Archives: Blue Collar Gastronomy
‘Grass is ‘Sparagus
A weekend comes on us with promises of continuous fine weather and we are deep into the English asparagus season which correctly ends on Mid-Summer Night’s Eve. Please may I pass on tips (sic). First buy asparagus that is fresh … Continue reading
Camionettes Come Laden with Promises
Ask yourself where in Europe are food markets at their strongest and part of the answer is trucks as much as treats. The French reign supreme with their ingeniously constructed Camionettes du Marchés. The closest we might get are the traditional silver and … Continue reading
First Choose Your Trotter, then Find Your Feet
Pig’s trotters were elevated from food of the immigrant poor to a delicacy for wealthy Londoners around 35 years ago. Pierre Koffmann, probably the finest French chef in London since Auguste Escoffier and Michel Bourdin left town, made the pig’s trotter his … Continue reading
Mobile Speck Knodel & Strudel
After 15 or more years working in high pressure restaurant kitchens, with their long hours and back-to-back shifts, Franz Schinagl knew he had to break free from his last posting as chef at Asia de Cuba. “As exciting as it was, I became so thin and … Continue reading
Flat Eggs and the Omelette Poulard
Driving through Eastern France about 20 years ago, en-route to Germany with an American who’d never been out of the US was stressful – a road trip that I wished I’d never agreed to. Kerouac’s ‘On The Road’ it wasn’t. My passenger … Continue reading
