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Category Archives: Batterie
The Friday Stockdish
How our tastes change. As a teenager I dreaded the Friday lunch during my heady days in the Aveyron. It would hit me each Wednesday that we were on countdown to the most frightful meal of the week. How could this dish fit into cooking … Continue reading
Posted in AOC, Baccala, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Burgundy, Cazuela, Cazuela, Cicchetti, Curing and Smoking, Norway, Onions, Poulet, Poulet de Bresse, Poulet de Bresse, Salt Cod, Spanish Cooking
Tagged Aveyron, Bacalau, Bacalhau, Baccala, Baccala Mantecato, brandade de morue, Cafe Viargues, Decazeville, Fresh Cod, Genoa, Harry's Bar Cookbook, Iceland, il Genovese, La Cucina Veneziana, Lofoten, Lutefisk, Merlu, Morue, Pesto alla Genovese, Reykjavik, Slow Food Ark, Stoccafisso, Stockfish, Stockfisk
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Sauce Source
Why does sauce making get folks into such a proper lather? Gravies and sauces get confused. How to present a dish in its full glory? The routine is familiar and would have been heard in a million or more homes … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Batterie, Black Peppercorns, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Burgundy, Chicken, Citrus Fruit, Fonds and Jus, Great Chefs, Onions, Stocks and Stock Making, Wild Funghi
Tagged Airelles, Aromatics, Auguste Escoffier, Calvados, Citrus, Cognac, Confits, Dried Porcini, Escoffier, Fonds, Fumets, Good Vinegars, Sauciers, Stocks, Wine
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Gunton Arms for Fire, Deer and Art
Connection and seeming coincidences so often thread through this blog. For one who doesn’t believe in coincidence, perhaps something’s going on. Here’s the most recent happening. Earlier in the summer I was invited to have lunch in North Norfolk. I was taken to … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Batterie, Beef, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassica's, Bread, Ingredients, Offals, Pork, Venison
Tagged 'In Search of TASTE', 'Tete de Cerf', AA Gill, Aged Rib of Beef, Ch Mouton-Rothschild, Ch Petrus, Chef Stuart Tattersall, Cromer Crabs, Francis Bacon, Ivor Braka, J Baker's Bistro Moderne, Jay Rayner, Keith Reeves, King's Lynn Shrimps, Lucien Freud, Mark Hix, Neil Nugent, North Norfolk, Open Fire Cooking, Picpoul de Pinet, Stuart Tattersall, Sunday Times, Tete de Veau, The Gunton Arms, Venison, Venison Offals, Vermentino
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First in Britain – ‘Le Grand Maitre’ at Our Table
A text message pings in from Arnaud, a guy I’ve never met – “meet me on Smithfield Market in the morning at 06h00″ he wrote. Arnaud visits London once a month to look after the affairs of Loué, my favourite poultry … Continue reading
Posted in Alcohol, Alliums, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Capon, Caponisation, Cazuela, Chicken, Fonds and Jus, Food Influencers, Food Marketeers, food politics, French Markets, French Regional Foods, French supermarkets, Guinea Fowl, IGP, Label Rouge, Pigeoneau, Poulet, Poulet Fermier, Poulet Fermiers, Risotto, Salad, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Terroir
Tagged Bastille Day, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Genetically Modified Foods, Henri IV, Hybrid Chickens, Jasnieres, July 14, LDC, Le Gout, Le Mans, Loue, Maine et Loire, Monsanto, Pays de Loire, Poule au Pot, Poulet Roti, Quatorze Juillet, Sans OGM, Sarthe, Savennieres, Smithfield Market
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Heaven’s ‘Grass Comes in Two Colours or Three
Asparagus – my goodness, where to begin? I’ve grown up with the stuff – I’m still amazed about how the spears appear overnight, how the beds must not be trodden on, how to cut it, how sprue can be enjoyed and more. … Continue reading
Posted in Batterie, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Classic Rice Dishes, Food Scams, Foraging, French Markets, Good Potatoes, Kitchen Equipment, Memories, Perfect Eggs, Rice, Risotto, Simple Food, Spanish Cooking, supermarkets, Terroir, The Food Business
Tagged 'Cannabis Cuisine', Asparagus Season, Asperges Violette, Cooking Asparagus, Green Asparagus, Hamburg, Liegoise-style, Loire, Mineral Water Sommeliers, Preparing Asparagus, Sauce Maltaise, Spargel, Storing Asparagus, Violet tipped Asparagus, White Asparagus
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The Lion amongst Pepper Mills
The town of Belfort and Peugeot’s snarling lion logo have been synonymous since around 1850. Peugeot today is most famous for family run-abouts, but its recent challenges to the all-dominant Audi in the Le Mans 24 Hours, including a class win in 2009 … Continue reading
Board a Red Eye Ferry for your Festive Food
Seeming to have only just fallen asleep, my ‘phone alarm goes off at 04h00 - it’s the Thursday before Christmas Day. Out of bed, showered, coffee’d – one sugar please - and we on our way on near empty roads to the port. … Continue reading
Posted in Alliums, Archaeology and Food, Batterie, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Capon, Caponisation, Chicken, Foie Gras, Fonds and Jus, Food of the Ancients, French supermarkets, Fruits Glace, Graisse d'oie and Confit de Canard, Great Chefs, Label Rouge, Oysters and Shellfish, Poulet Fermiers, South West French Cuisine, Speciality Chicken, Stocks and Stock Making, supermarkets, Terroir
Tagged Boulogne-sur-Mer, Bouzique Oysters, Champagne, Choucroute, Christmas Table, Confits, Foie Gras, Fresh Foie Gras, Georges Blanc, Glorieuses de Bresse, Leclerc, Pigeoneau, Sauce Making, Shopping made a Pleasure not a Chore, Speciality Potatoes, St Vaast Oysters, The Christmas Feast
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