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Author Archives: Gareth
The Bretons’ Best Silver
How can one improve on eating sardines? The little fish described by London chef Rowley Leigh of Le Café Anglais as ‘the rabbits of the piscatorial world’. Wouldn’t we prefer this Chef/Writer had kept his English plainer and written ‘sea’, but otherwise I loved what he said, specially … Continue reading
Posted in Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Bread, Fish, Food of the Ancients, French supermarkets, Harry's Bar, Label Rouge, Simple Food, supermarkets, Terroir, The Food Business, Venice, Vinegars
Tagged Ancient Rome, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brasserie Lipp, Brittany, Cancale, Colatura di Alici from Amalfi, Connétable, Douarnenez, Garum, Le Guilvinec, Napoleon, Nicolas Appert, Sarde e Soar, Sardines, Sardines de Millesime, Venice, Vintage Sardines, W Chancerelle, www.gustiamo.com
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Schmaltz, Oma style
With more and more UK food stores, from hypermarket barns to our neighbourhood late night shops, most times now stocking Duck or Goose Fat and some delicatessens even selling Italian Lardo, a third option is missing. It’s where we should go next. … Continue reading
Posted in Austrian Cooking, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Bread, Comforting Foods, Curing and Smoking, Fish, Good Potatoes, Graisse d'oie and Confit de Canard, Simple Food, Smoked Fish, South West French Cuisine, Terroir
Tagged 'In Search of TASTE', 'Nose to Tail' Eating, Austrian Cooking, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Fergus Henderson, Horseradish, Knoddel, Knusper Grammeln, Kren, Meerettich, Oma's Cooking, Roggen Brot, Rye Bread, Schmaltz, Styria, Tewksbury Mustard
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Practical Pots and Plates
When in April 2011 I began a series titled ‘Kitchen Luxuries’, I was amazed at the pick up. Within weeks I’d been contacted by enthusiasts like myself for the Thomas TC100 industrial china design. They came from all over – Australia, … Continue reading
Posted in Kitchen Must-Have, Thomas Germany, White China
Tagged Bauhaus, Bernard & Janet Leach, Bernard Leach, British Crafts Centre, Joanna Constantinidis, Leach pottery, Linda Bloomfield, Linda Bloomfield's 'Contemporary Tableware', Oaxaca, Potters, Rosenthal, St Ives, TC100, Thomas China, Thomas Germany, Ulms School
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‘Something in the Middle’ said in Italian
‘Something in the Middle’ best, if loosely, translates the Italian word ’Tramezzini’. Back in 1995, two people were in Venice one November. There were late autumn high tides each morning until gone 11h00 – Acgua Alta – and they’d each only visited that magical … Continue reading
Posted in Uncategorized
Tagged 'Con Bitter', 'Ombra', Aperol Spritz, Bacari, Croque Monsieur, Enoteca, Fegato alla Veneziana, Harry's Bar, Polpette, Prosecco, Rialto Market, Tramezzini, Tre Archi, Venice, White Bread
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The Friday Stockdish
How our tastes change. As a teenager I dreaded the Friday lunch during my heady days in the Aveyron. It would hit me each Wednesday that we were on countdown to the most frightful meal of the week. How could this dish fit into cooking … Continue reading
Posted in AOC, Baccala, Blue Collar Gastronomy, Brassserie Lipp, Burgundy, Cazuela, Cazuela, Cicchetti, Curing and Smoking, Norway, Onions, Poulet, Poulet de Bresse, Poulet de Bresse, Salt Cod, Spanish Cooking
Tagged Aveyron, Bacalau, Bacalhau, Baccala, Baccala Mantecato, brandade de morue, Cafe Viargues, Decazeville, Fresh Cod, Genoa, Harry's Bar Cookbook, Iceland, il Genovese, La Cucina Veneziana, Lofoten, Lutefisk, Merlu, Morue, Pesto alla Genovese, Reykjavik, Slow Food Ark, Stoccafisso, Stockfish, Stockfisk
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Gnocco, Gnocchi – Who’s There?
The answer is a dumpling that’s as old as pasta itself. That’s Gnocchi – made most times nowadays with potato, but with variants assembled from semolina, regular wheat flour, chestnut flour, polenta, breadcrumbs (like Knödel) and, in Lombardy, they make theirs with pumpkin. Sometimes the gnocchi are … Continue reading
Posted in Blue Collar Gastronomy, Comforting Foods, Good Potatoes, Harry's Bar, Real Italy, Techniques, Terroir, Venice
Tagged "Acquolina", Amaretti, Anthony Blake, Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, Calle Valaresso, Campo San Barnaba, Cotechino, Desire, Floury Potatoes, Gino Santin, Gnocchi, Gnocchi alla Parigina, Gnocchi di Patate, Gnoccho, Guidecca, Harry's Bar, King Edwards, Levoni, Lombardy, Mantova, Maris Piper, Parmentier, Pesto alla Genovese, Pesto Rossi, Sage, Salvia, Tazio Nuvolari, Tortelli di Zucca, Venice, Zampone
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Katie or Kate’s Great Legacy
The world of food and cookery writing lost a hero a few weeks ago. Much saddened as we are to lose a friend, we lost Katie’s writing about a decade earlier when she retired from the mainstream. In what was to … Continue reading
Posted in Seasoning, Sensory Cooking, Simple Food, Stocks and Stock Making, Subsidised Food Production, Techniques, Terroir, Watercress
Tagged Anthony Blake. Cuckfield, Cookery Writers, Daily Telegraph, Fideua, Food Writers, Katie Stewart, Le Cordon Bleu. Avenue Foch, Longhouse Kitchens, Longhouse Workshops, paella, Risotto, Roll and Diamond Cutting Chinese style, Simpson's-in-the-Strand, The Guardian, The Times, Watercress Dinners, Watercress in Hampshire
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